Sourlies
May 13th
So after a cold night we woke up to do the 8 kilometer stretch to Sourlies where a small bothy (shelter) should provide a campsite for the next night.
The idea to follow the beach at low tide proved to be impractical. Despite it being low tide, sea weed covered boulders made it treacherous going. We choose the higher ground, but that was extremely wet and rough. At many points the ridges of rock reached the Loch and with the backpacks we had to move up and down along the shore line. In all an energy consuming exersize.
A view towards Sorlies
At this point, Brice was miles ahead and should have used his position to cook us lunch. But he didn't. He just walked ahead, at one moment to be found high above us and the next then again much further down. Youth....
At the end of the fjord we had to cross a tidal flat to Sorlies. However, the tide was now coming back in quickly and started to cut us off. By now our feet were so wet that nobody bothered to find a dry crossing. We just waded through.
Tomoki crossing the Finskaig estuary
The bothy was packed. At least two families with an uncounted number of kids were desperately trying to dry out their gear. Further a number of walkers and even cyclist were taking a break. We clearly had hit the main traffic artery.
We made lunch, exchanged recipes and waited for the rain to clear. As it was early and the tide would cut off the route at Strone Sourlies we decided to move on. I still don't know why, as this way supposed to be the end of day 2. Maybe we all knew that there were far too many humans to fit in a tiny bothy. Maybe it was the thought that someone would lit the chimney which was packed with used nappies!!! Certainly a 2nd night wet in a wet tent wasn't appealling and the sun is always brighter on the other side of that massive mountain we would have to climb now.
The route took us through some flat fields which hadn't decided yet on being land or water yet. The water was clearly winning.
Happy faces inside the bothy of Solies (Brice reading the instruction on a toilet paper roll).
We crossed the suspension bridge at Carnoch which carried a warning sign on the far side that the bridge was un-safe to cross. The Scottish are well known for a good sense of humour.
The suspension bridge at Carnoch
Up until that moment I had had the discipline to put on my waterproof trousers every time it rained. As both Tomoki and Brice didn't bother and the wind in the dry spells had blown the trousers dry in minutes, I decided to follow their example. From that moment the rain didn't stop.
Looking back to the river Carnach, Loch Nevis and Sorlies
From Carnoch we took the path up to a pass between Meall Buidhe and Meall Bhasiter. It was about 500 meters up and hard work. I've never seen a mountain as a whole being a waterfall. Wherever you looked water was running down. Once we reached the pass we were greeted by some strong winds.
Inverie in the distance from the top of the Gleann Meadail pass
At this time we were very much soaked and we decided to move on as quickly as possible. The orginal plan was to camp on that beautiful sunny spot that I had found on the web site describing the route in opposite direction. But by the time we got there, we were so wet and cold that the pub in Inverie was a very tempting target. Yet it was a long way off which was balanced against another exiting night camping in cold wet conditions. We decided to go on.
Tomoki ordering two bottles of wine and a barrel of whiskey.
That choice, in effect, that meant that our 3 day trip turned into a two day one. Most people are upset when their holiday is cut short.
Finally we reached the Inverie pub, which claimed to be the most remote one in Scotland. We didn't care as long as the heating was on, the roof waterproof and the bar open. All 3 three scored points.
We then found out that a bunk house was not too far away with warm showers. Tomoki bought a bottle of wine, just in case and we left. The bunk house is sited on an old estate and in the process of being restored by the community. A very pleasant place indeed, where we could dry out our thoroughly wet gear.
We cooked ourselves a nice meal and finished Tomoki's bottle far too quickly. A comfortable night rest....mmmmm.
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